Let’s talk about ginger.

Not gingerbread houses or Christmas cookies. Just ginger.

Fresh ginger is one of those wonderfully useful ingredients that deserves a little more attention once the leaves begin to turn. It’s bright, fragrant and pleasantly sharp, bringing a little spark to the deeper, sweeter flavors we start reaching for in fall.

And while ginger is perfectly happy with apples, pears, brown sugar and chocolate, our favorite way to enjoy it this time of year is rather simpler.

Rice pudding.

There is something wonderfully comforting about rice pudding simmered slowly with milk, sugar and fresh ginger. The rice becomes creamy and soft, while the ginger adds a gentle warmth that keeps the whole thing from becoming too sweet.

Fresh Ginger or Ground?

When we’re baking with ginger, we reach for fresh whenever we can.

Fresh ginger has a brighter, livelier flavor than ground ginger, and a little goes a long way. Grate it finely and add it to fruit fillings, cake batter, caramel or sauces. And don't be afraid of using a generous amount: cooking with fresh ginger mellows its sharper edge and lets its warmer, sweeter side come through.

Ginger Rice Pudding

There are rice puddings, and then there is this one.

This is our secret ginger rice pudding: creamy, fragrant and gently spiced, with fresh ginger running through every spoonful. The recipe begins simply—with rice, water, ginger and cardamom—and becomes increasingly rich as whole milk, evaporated milk and condensed milk are slowly folded in.

The trick is patience. Let the pudding cook gently and slowly toward the end, stirring often and keeping a close eye on the pot. It's the sort of dessert that rewards you for staying close to the stove.

Ingredients

• 1 cup long-grain white rice, rinsed (basmati or jasmine both work well)

• 4 cups water

• 1 cup whole milk

• 1.5 cups evaporated milk

• 1 cup sweetened condensed milk

• 3 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

• 3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed, or ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar

Method

Combine the rinsed rice, water, ginger and cardamom in a heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes.

Add the whole milk and evaporated milk and continue to cook, stirring frequently for 5 to 10 minutes. The mixture should begin to look creamy. Add the condensed milk and the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium or medium low and continue cooking, stirring frequently to ensure no sticking. This final stage takes a 5 to 10 minutes. Keep stirring until the pudding is thick and not runny. Remove the pot from the heat once a thick enough consistency is reached. Add another tablespoon of sugar to taste if needed and stir.

Let it cool for 15 minutes before serving. Remove the cardamom pods and serve warm, or let the pudding cool and refrigerate it for a chilled dessert. Either way, the ginger should be present but not overpowering: warm, fragrant.